Grand Cru Burgundy

wines

A bottle of 1989 Roumier Bonnes Mares drunk with friends at La Paulée showed super-ripe, accessible fruit that seemed explosively aromatic and still incredibly youthful, with an aroma of bright cherries and hints of minerals, violets, and smoke. On the palate, the wine was rich yet elegantly balanced. At just over 20 years of age, this had opened and softened to where it no longer seemed forbiddingly dense. It is doubtless still ticking along nicely and should continue to age well for decades.Decanter | 98 DECBig and complex, with masses of fruit and tannins and a long, almost tough finish. A traditional, big wine that is drinkable now. 550 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThe 1989 vintage is not one that Christophe Roumier looks back on fondly, but his Bonnes-Mares is excellent and continues to cruise along beautifully at age twenty-five. This was the very first vintage where Christophe did away with multiple bottlings of Bonnes-Mares and only produced a single cuvée, which he has done in each subsequent vintage. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a mature and vibrant mix of black cherries, plums, woodsmoke, game, sous bois, mustard seed and a dollop of new oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, complex and still nicely plush at the core, with melted tannins, sound acids, fine focus and grip and a long, velvety and quite classy finish. Good juice at its apogee, but with plenty of life still in it. (Drink between 2014 - 2040)John Gilman | 93 JGDisplaying a fair depth of colour along with some lifted aromatics, the ’89 feels less ripe than many of the 1990s vintages. In fact this presents as a relatively lean wine, but it is certainly very stylish. It is one of the more savoury wines with some alpine strawberry fruit. It held up nicely in the glass without improving further. Tasted: February 2018.Jasper Morris | 93 JMAs elegant and pure as this wine usually is, the ’89 doesn’t seem to have quite the freshness that it should and while the now fully aromas are typical, which is to say there is plenty of earth, spice and game, it lacks real vibrancy. The concentrated big-bodied flavors, by contrast, are rich, structured, beautifully textured and complex and the backend offers solid if not genuinely stunning length. That said, 1989 is merely a very good vintage by the superb standards of this wine and for my taste it is drinking as well now as it’s ever going to. Tasted thrice recently with consistent notes.save for one bottle that displayed enough brett to materially detract from the drinking experience.Burghound | 91 BH

Light red. Beautiful nose, very youthful and pure. A vegetal note emerges with air. Packed with dense fruit and marked by a very firm structure of both acidity and dense tannins. The fruit is locked up right now in this massive, powerful La Tâche. Rather than open in the glass, this appears to close up, but have faith; this will be great.--La Tâche non-blind vertical. Best from 2010 through 2030. — BSWine Spectator | 95 WS(Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche Grand Cru Red) The nose evidences a slight floral quality, and a fascinating mix of earth, leather, tea and spice notes plus an interesting green bark component. The slightly austere, tannic, wonderfully rich flavors are dense, in fact extremely dense with excellent depth and terrific complexity and a finish that seems to go on forever. Though there are now hints of secondary aromas, this remains very young, structured and remarkably intense. When you get the right bottle, the ’93 can be a real stunner. Note: the inconsistency of this wine continues unabated as a bottle opened at the Domaine recently was almost aggressively vegetal and awkward. In short, when it’s good it’s very good but I’ve now had too many disappointing bottles not to be wary. (Drink starting 2018)Burghound | 95 BH

Rich and ripe Pinot Noir, black in color, thick in texture, pumping out the flavors. Silky midpalate reveals the pedigree of this wine. Loaded with sweet blackberry character that goes on to a long finish. Drink now through 2010.Wine Spectator | 93 WSBright, deep ruby-red. Complex nose melds violet, bitter chocolate, earth, meat and a hint of medicinal austerity. Dense, rich and thick; a wine of compelling richness and sweetness, but also solidly structured despite its accessibility today. Finishes with lush but firm tannins and exhilarating notes of cassis and violet. Lovely pinot noir.Vinous Media | 92 VM(Gros Frère et Soeur Richebourg Grand Cru Red) Extremely ripe with powerful black fruit, wood toast and Vosne spice aromas with tannic, robust flavors yet good finesse on the long finish. This makes a firm statement and has good size to go with the penetrating fruit. (Drink between 2009-2016)Burghound | 90 BH

The 1999 Richebourg Grand Cru from Hudelot-Noëllat personifies the vineyard with some style. It has a stunning, pure, elegant and effortless nose that maybe expresses that essence of pinoté better than more than a dozen other Richebourg wines present at this tasting. Raspberry coulis, wild strawberry and cold stone soar from the glass with great focus. The palate is tensile, the red berry fruit laced with orange zest that lends vivacity and energy. To be banal, this is just a Richebourg so well crafted that you want to just drink it rather than intellectualize over its virtues. That’s the sign of a great wine. Drink from 2015-2030.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 95 RP-NM(Richebourg- Hudelot-Noëllat) The 1999 Hudelot Richebourg is much more together out of the blocks that the RSV, delivering a complex and compelling bouquet of red plums and cherries, milk chocolate, smoke, venison, minerals, herb tones, hints of forest floor and a stylish coating of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, lush and potentially quite opulent, with excellent focus and polish, packed with fruit at the core, and excellent length and grip on the moderately tannic finish. This does not quite possess the nascent complexity of the Méo Richebourg, but it matches it every step of the way for breed, focus and delineation, Another ringing success for the vintage. While this will be approachable in a few years, I would give it at least eight or nine years to fully open and start hitting on all cylinders. Fine, fine juice. (Drink between 2010-2040)John Gilman | 94 JG (aged in about 40% new oak, a bit less than in recent vintages): Medium red with modest saturation. Aromas of black raspberry, leather and earth are less pristine than those of today’s wines. Creamy-sweet and spicy in the mouth, with a slightly high-toned quality to its fat flavors of red berries, red cherry, underbrush and leather.Vinous Media | 93 VMClassic Hudelot style with its discreetly elegant nose of spice and beautifully proportioned flavors displaying outstanding richness and perfect acid/fruit balance. Very fine, very long and a Richebourg that delivers finesse rather than power though this is by no means a shrinking violet. In short, this is a complex, long and perfectly balanced effort that has largely reached its apogee.Burghound | 93 BH

I do not taste enough mature bottles from Anne Gros. This 2000 Richebourg Grand Cru is delightful, sporting impressive purity on the nose, summer fruit and ember aromas, lightly spiced with perhaps just a hint of VA. The palate is medium-bodied and nicely poised, light in terms of grip for a Richebourg but with good length on the ash-infused finish. Plenty of character and a commendable wine for the vintage. Tasted at La Paulée in Beaune.Vinous Media | 93 VMVery spicy and extremely elegant crushed black fruit and hints of oak toast lead to superbly complex, firm and relatively fine flavors. The palate impression is quite refined and not nearly as robust as classic Richebourg though there is a solid backbone of ripe tannins. Classy, very rich, very complex flavors and a supremely long finish make for a stunner of a wine.Burghound | 93 BHThe 2000 Richebourg from Anne Gros is still on the young side, as is the case with so many of the best grand crus in this vintage. However, as is so often the case with Madame Gros’ wines, the Richebourg is carrying a pretty heavy load of high toast new oak, and while there is probably sufficient stuffing to eventually absorb all the wood, the wine is certainly not better off for its veneer. The bouquet offers up a classy blend of cherries, plums, a bit or raspberry, chocolate, smoke, earth and plenty of new oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, focused and fairly tannic still, with good mid-palate depth, but a rather rigid palate impression today from the oak tannins. I suspect that in another five or six years this will give more pleasure than it does today, as it is a well-made wine from the school of new oak. (Drink between 2012 - 2025)John Gilman | 90+ JG

Good bright dark red. Lively aromas of plum, violet, espresso and underbrush; a bit more primary than the Suchots. Impressively concentrated, dense and sweet, with vibrant red fruit and spice flavors. Impeccably balanced, generous 2001, finishing with superb sweetness and breadth. This, too, should reward several years of aging but is fat and pliant already.Vinous Media | 93 VMThis too is reference standard RSV with its wonderfully seductive panoply of spice and fresh crushed herb notes that seamlessly merge with rich, powerful yet refined flavors that pack plenty of punch and length. The length here is simply phenomenal and this is without question the finest wine in the line-up. In short, this is a compelling wine that is endowed with the potential to become a genuinely great wine. Burghound | 92-95 BHFloral, elegant, silky. Full-bodied, a lovely red Burgundy, with smoke, blackberries, black cherries and raspberries swirling around, seducing from start to finish. Clean, pure, long, balanced finish.Wine Spectator | 91 WSSugar-coated creamy red fruits and flowers are found in the aromatic profile of the 2001 Romanee-St.-Vivant. Armed with wonderful depth of fruit, it is medium-bodied, silky-textured, and offers loads of red cherry fruit. An elegant, concentrated wine, it is well-structured and lengthy.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-93 RP

(Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat Richebourg Grand Cru Red) (with thanks to Dr. Reed Day). While this has certainly matured since I first saw it from bottle in 2004, the original note still largely captures the wine with its deep, complex and spicy old vine aromas that are slightly floral in character. This brilliant introduction is followed by wonderfully harmonious and quite powerful middle weight flavors that are beautifully delineated and perfectly balanced while delivering superb length. In sum, this ultra-pure effort offers reference standard quality with more refinement than young Richebourg usually displays - plus it's approaching readiness for prime time and could easily be enjoyed now though for my taste another 3 to 5 years would serve it well. Tasted twice in the last few months. (Drink starting 2015)Burghound | 94 BHModerately saturated palish red. Very sexy, open-knit perfume of raspberry, truffle, mulch and menthol. Not a powerhouse but boasts lovely retention of fruit and finesse, with its flavors of strawberry, raspberry, truffle and spices nicely framed by bright acidity. The tannins are still a bit tight but the firmly structured finish displays lovely rising spicy length. This perfumed but youthfully reserved wine should continue to mellow with further time in the cellar.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Produced from a tiny parcel of old vines (80-85 years old), the 2002 Clos St.-Denis explodes from the glass with delectable aromas of sweet blueberries and cherries. Medium to full bodied, it is broad, ample, expansive, and well-structured. Ripe blackberries, cassis, blueberries, leather, and herbs can be found in its flavor profile. This effort’s copious fruit envelopes an enormous quantity of ripe yet firm tannin. Projected maturity: 2009-2018.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RP(Maison Louis Jadot Clos St. Denis Grand Cru Red) Much more deftly oaked with complex, elegant and beautifully pure red and black fruit aromas and sweet, deep, rich and mouth coating flavors that possess a spicy, powerful and extremely long finish. This is more understated than a number of the grands crus in the range though there is more muscle and punch than usual though about the same degree of structure. A terrific effort and the best since the extraordinary ’99 that should improve for up to a decade and last for another. (Drink between 2010-2017).Burghound | 91-93 BH(these vines are between 80 and 90 years of age, notes Lardiere) Dark red. Musky aromas of red fruits, chocolate and mocha, with complicating notes of herbs and underbrush. In a drier style than the Amoureuses, but with complex, well-defined flavors of red fruits, herbs and mint. Here one senses the vinification with the stems. Finishes with ripe, chewy tannins and lingering notes of earth, mocha and spice. An atypically strong showing for this cuvee.Vinous Media | 89-92 VM

(Clos de la Roche- Domaine Dujac) The 2005 vintage remains the single greatest young vintage of this wine that I have ever tasted, and at age eleven, there is nothing going on in this wine that dissuades me from this conviction, as this is sheer brilliance from tip to toe. However, like so many of the very finest 2005s, this wine is still in its infancy and is years and years away from truly blossoming, so opening up bottles now is pure infanticide. However, for research purposes, we sacrificed a bottle at our vertical, with the wine offering up an absolutely brilliant, albeit primary, bouquet of sappy plums, red and black cherries, venison, raw cocoa, a superb base of soil, woodsmoke, fresh herbs and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, pure, full-bodied and gloriously sappy at the core, coupled to stunning transparency, ripe tannins, great acids and laser-like focus on the very long, very young and perfectly balanced finish. All this legend needs is time. (Drink between 2030-2100)John Gilman | 98 JGThe Seysses’ 2005 Clos de la Roche charts new territory in this collection for sheer intensity. Black cherry, kirsch distillate, cedar, incense, iron filings, wet stone, and roasted meats and coffee represent a few of the immediate aromatic suggestions forced on this taster. In the mouth, it is similarly compelling, with an eruption of clear black cherry, cassis, and meat juices, faintly bitter notes of fruit skin and pungent herbal and mineral notes adding complexity. The texture is incipiently velvety, imposingly glossy, and a perfect cover for fine, abundant tannins. Spectacularly rich and reverberative in its multifaceted finish, this sensational wine deserves at least a decade of rest before re-opening.The already rich array of crus at Domaine Dujac has recently been augmented on two fronts. The purchase (along with de Montille) of the Societe Civile du Clos de Thorey (Thomas-Moillard) has brought them a raft of choice parcels including three new grand cru holdings (for a staggering total of eight). Meanwhile, they have expanded their negociant arm (with control over harvest and green harvest a prerequisite) to supplement in particular their volumes of village-level wine. (Those wines – labeled “Dujac Fils & Pere” – are signified in the above listing with “FP”. In fact, due to a legal technicality, the 2005 vintage wines from the properties newly acquired by the domaine – but not subsequent vintages – will also read “Fils & Pere” rather than “Domaine”.) Even with California-trained oenologist Diana Seysses (nee Snowden) joining her husband Jeremy and in-laws Jacques and Alec, and with a new winery (though at the old address) I wonder at how they are able to keep up with the magnitude of their responsibilities. Yet despite so many parcels and vines new to them this year, the results are consistently outstanding and at times astounding. Much of the vinification – increasingly as one goes up the hierarchy of crus – was of whole clusters. Malos finished (finally) by November and the wines were bottle in December and January.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RP(Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Red) Sweet black cherry fruit, warm earth, spice and a hint of the sauvage leads to focused, intense, vibrant and well-muscled full-bodied flavors that carry ample authority and punch on the complex, broad and superbly long finish. There is real depth of material here and the intensity builds from the mid-palate on back to the explosive if slightly austere finish. There is so much dry extract here that this is a dramatic and powerful wine. A stunner with simply amazing persistence. (Drink starting 2017).Burghound | 95 BHFull colour. Rich, concentrated nose. Nice and fat. Compared with earlier Dujacs this has more backbone and intensity. Excellent fruit and really profound. Very fine.Decanter | 95 DECDeep red-ruby. Pure but tight aromas of dark raspberry, brown spices and graphite. Dense, fat and rich but quite youthfully reduced, showing notes of smoke and toast. This amazingly chewy and tactile wine needs a lot of patience. Sullen today but very long and strong on the back end, with a powerful impression of dry extract and a finishing note of chocolate. If you invest in a wine like this, don't even think of opening it any time soon (Jeremy Seysses suggests waiting 12 years).Vinous Media | 94+ VM

Superb complexity, completeness and depth. Loaded to the hilt with dark fruits, spice, earth, dark chocolate and bracken; tannins are assertive and driving with plenty of power. From 2018.James Suckling | 96 JS(Domaine Comte de Vogüé Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru Red) An even riper but not surmature nose that is less elegant and aromatically complex, at least at present, features brooding aromas of black and blue berry plus black cherry and violets nuanced by hints of spice and warm earth merge into big, powerful and well-muscled flavors underpinned by impressive mid-palate concentration and dense but fine tannins, all wrapped in a dazzling long finish that is perfectly balanced. This will clearly require time to unfold but the raw material is indisputably here and like the Musigny, this is built for the very long haul. (Drink starting 2020).Burghound | 95 BHDeep red-ruby. Superripe aromas of black plum, blueberry, graphite, mocha and wild herbs; there's something almost Bordeaux-like about this. Then dense, sweet and powerful, with a seamless, fine-grained texture and a richness verging on chocolatey. Less perfumed than the Chambolle cuvees, but with no shortage of sap. Most impressive today on the back end, finishing with substantial dusty tannins and rising flavors of plum, menthol and chocolate. This muscular and very young wine will be long-lived.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe 2005 Bonnes Mares marries black and red raspberries with fresh- sorbet- and liquer-like aspects alternating on a quite refined, polished, and (for this cru) seemingly less-savage than usual palate. Myriad herbs and spices mingle with the fruit and suggestions of wood smoke, horehound and sassafras emerge along with the sweet raspberries in a lingering finish that administers a considerable lashing of fine tannin and displays a sappy, resinous, faintly peppery cling. This is certainly the alter ego of this year’s cool, floral, tender Amoureuses. Final choices had been made as to those barrels from Musigny that would be culled to bottle as Chambolle 1er Cru but they represented several as yet unblended lots, which I was unable to taste.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-94 RP

(Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Bonnes Mares Grand Cru Red) A brooding and backward nose is presently revealing little save for glimpses of red and blue berry fruit aromas though the rich, full and sleekly muscled flavors are sappy, intense and powerful, all wrapped in a classy and very pure finish of exceptional length. Despite the reserve, this is impressively constructed and built to age. Terrific and worth a close look. (Drink starting 2017).Burghound | 92-95 BHTwo separate samples in London. An opulent, rich nose with a lot of new oak. The palate is hedonistic, well balanced with succulent red-berried fruit. A ravishing, licentious wine, perhaps without the persistency or depth to merit as long ageing as other Grand Crus, but still a heap of sappy, succulent fun. Tasted January 2007. Drink 2009-2012.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 91-93 RP-NM

(Domaine Jean Grivot, Richebourg Grand Cru, Burgundy, France, Red) Full colour. Splendidly concentrated and complex on the nose, but still very closed in. Full body, finely tuned, fragrant, understated and very harmonious. Vigorous, intense and very classy indeed on the follow through. This is excellent. (Drink starting 2018)Decanter | 98 DECThe 2005 Richebourg displays a fascinating and alluring bouquet of black raspberry, nutmeg, ginger, sandalwood, and marrow. It offers an incredibly spicy, intensely black-fruited, old vines impression in the mouth, coating the palate with silken folds of fruit yet gliding elegantly into a finish of dark berries, spice, raw meat, wet stone, and mineral salts. Like spading fertile earth, one turns up new, dark secrets with each sip. For all of its textural richness and ripeness of fruit, this superb Pinot preserves a certain “cool” restraint, with no superficial sweetness. It would be a shame to cellar this for fewer than 10-12 years.Etienne Grivot aimed this year for gentle extraction (essentially without pigeage), then watchful preservation of the freshness, subtleties and refinement inherent in near-perfect raw material. He performed some very light chaptalization to extend the fermentations. Given the health and natural concentration of his vinous raw material, he felt no need to sulfur or rack the wines until shortly prior to bottling (without filtration), which was the stage at which I tasted.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96-97 RPDeep red-ruby. The nose offers a pure, pungent expression of Richebourg soil: black raspberry, blueberry pastille, musky minerality, smoke, cocoa powder. Like a black hole of dark fruits on the palate: thick but weightless, with incredible concentration and depth. This is quite closed, like the Beaux-Monts, with the slow-mounting finish displaying great length and thrust. A fabulously ripe but youthfully imploded wine that will need 12 to 15 years in the cellar to fully express itself.Vinous Media | 96+ VM(Domaine Jean Grivot Richebourg Grand Cru Red) The step up in class is unmistakable with gorgeously complex red, black and violet aromas trimmed with a dazzling array of spices, earth and a hint of smoked game that add real luster to the round, intense, muscular but stylish flavors that possess real power and a building intensity that develops from the mid-palate to the explosive finish. I really like the purity of expression here on the linear and mineral-infused finish that has a dusty quality from all of the dry extract that coats the mouth on the hugely persistent backend. This is a big wine but it remains impeccably well balanced and should live for decades. Highly recommended. (Drink starting 2022)Burghound | 95 BH

Full ruby. Brooding, deep aromas of blackberry, black cherry, minerals, violet and earth. Pure, precise and superconcentrated, with uncanny density and strength of blackberry and floral flavor. This saturates the entire palate, finishing with very firm tannins, a lightly mentholated quality and great persistence. Will need extended aging to express its inherent complexity. The year for Chambertin," notes Martin Prieur, who added that the Prieur parcel is located in a "much less regular spot" (in terms of ripening) than some others. Potentially great for this cuveeVinous Media | 94+ VMThe Prieur 2005 Chambertin had been racked and returned to barrel when I tasted. Generous blackberry liqueur, cedar and roasted meat aromas usher in an almost implosively concentrated, severely black-fruited palate, underlain by charred meat and a veritable sauna bath of wet stones. This really grips in the back, but formidable tannins keep it from being much fun to taste, for all of its obvious ripeness. If you imagine Chambertin of Napoleonic compactness and ambition – even though some of the best 2005s demonstrate how full of flowers and finesse youthful wine from this appellation can be – then here is your emperor of a wine. I wouldn’t want to bet against it over the long haul, although that might be long indeed.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-93 RPStill very deeply colored. The still somewhat primary though nicely nuanced black fruit, spice and earth scented nose introduces big-bodied, rich and very concentrated flavors that brim with dry extract that also serves to buffer the moderately firm and lingering if somewhat monolithic finale. To my taste this has peaked even if only just and is a wine that should last for several more decades. With that said, it’s not clear that it’s necessarily going to improve from here. I found this to be perfectly good if a bit inelegant.Burghound | 92 BHI am sure that the Chambertin and Musigny chez Prieur are raised in one hundred percent new oak, and both wines were showing a fair bit of wood spice on the nose and a fair bit of wood tannin on the backend at the time of my March visit. The nose on the ’05 Chamby is a fine, meaty mélange of black cherries, cassis, woodsmoke, grilled meats, earth and spicy oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and focused, with a fine core of fruit, tangy acids, and plenty of chewy tannin currently in ascendancy on the long finish. I am sure that this will have no trouble eventually absorbing all of its new oak, but the question really needs to be asked as to whether or not the wine is better off for all of its new wood. As I tasted this I could not help imagining these fine raw materials with the terroir front and center in the same way that Freddy Mugnier’s Musigny is utterly defined by its refined soil these days. This is a very good Chambertin that to my palate could be unmistakably great with the new wood dialed down. (Drink between 2017 - 2060)John Gilman | 90-94 JG

The concentration and intensity has slowly but noticeably been increasing over the last few vintages as the vines begin to achieve a higher average age and it’s particularly evident in 2005. Here the nose is unusually expressive rather than its usual brooding character with pretty, even elegant aromas of spicy red pinot and purple fruit and warm earth notes that can also be found on the powerful but detailed, indeed almost nervous flavors that possess excellent precision and a very attractive underlying tension on the explosive finish that delivers flat out incredible length. 2005 is the best vintage for this wine that I’ve seen since Mugnier took over.Burghound | 96 BHBright ruby-red. Knockout nose offers strawberry, blueberry, musky herbs and brown spices, with an almost liqueur-like sweetness. Wonderfully sweet and plush, with a bottomless quality to its fruit. This is amazingly expressive today, but it’s hard to imagine that this wine won’t shut down within the next year or two. An outstanding vintage for this cuvee, finishing with great length and lift. Half of these vines were planted in 1981 and 1987, while the rest are considerably older. Mugnier has never liked these latter clones, but notes that they continue to improve with age.Vinous Media | 95 VMI have never tasted a better example of Bonner-Mares from Monsieur Mugnier than the 2005, as the combination of this vineyard’s more reserved terroir and the velvety, perfumed elegance of the vintage have combined to make a truly special bottle. The bouquet is deep, refined and utterly seductive, as it offers up a stunningly pure mélange of black cherries, red plums, roses, cocoa powder, a touch of woodsmoke, a lovely base of soil and a judicious framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, pure and sappy to the core, with an attack of velvet, great acids for brightness and focus, and utterly supple tannins on the backend that will carry the wine for decades, and yet seemingly never cause deferment of gratification. Just a beautiful bottle of elegant, intensely flavored Bonnes-Mares. This wine is nearly irresistible out of the blocks, but I would be inclined to certainly try and bury it in the cellar for a bit and let its secondary and tertiary layers of complexity build. (Drink between 2015 - 2050)John Gilman | 94 JGThe Mugnier 2005 Bonnes-Mares (of which there will be only around 125 cases) leads with aromas of ripe mulberry, blackberry, roasted meat, black tea, horehound and musky florality. This is one of those decidedly darkly-hued 2005s, and lacks the refreshment, the treble high-tones, or quite the focus of its siblings. Where this wine looks likely to shine is in its depth of mineral and earthy (stone and humus) manifestations, which already dominate the finish. Certainly this represents a dramatic departure in character from most other Bonnes-Mares of the vintage, which I am at a loss to explain.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-92 RP

A pungent mix of wood spice, earth, red berry fruit, game, smoke and natural spice highlights the moderately sauvage character of the rich, full, refined and pure flavors underpinned by ripe and very firm tannins that culminate in an austere and very backward finish. This will require lots of cellar time to be at its best and like the Clos de Vougeot, this will be a long-distance runner.Burghound | 93-95 BHThe 2005 Clos de Bèze is a fine bottle in the making. It offers up a complex and nicely reserved nose of black cherries, cassis, blood orange, cocoa, earth, incipient notes of grilled meat and a fair bit of spicy oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied and still fairly closed after its recent bottling, but with good depth at the core, fine focus, and lovely length and grip on the ripely tannic, tangy finish. This wine will prove to offer up all of the complexity and breed of Clos de Bèze when it is mature, but a bit of wood tannin remains uncovered at the present time, and will probably always remain on the backend of the wine. Not that it is out of balance or without the stuffing to carry the wood, but a bit of wood spice will always be one of the characteristics of this wine. Oh to taste a Drouhin-Laroze Clos de Bèze with only twenty or thirty percent new oak and with the terroir front and center, now that would be exciting. But do not misunderstand me, this is still a very well-made wine. (Drink between 2017 - 2050)John Gilman | 93 JG

A very ripe nose displays hints of mocha, cola and plum though it’s not inelegant or surmature. The well-muscled flavors retain a good sense of freshness and vitality on the punchy, sweet and dusty finish where a note of youthful austerity can also be found.Burghound | 90-92 BH

Amazing balance and purity of flavors, extending from the complex crushed cranberry, rose petal and raspberry scents to the touches of mineral, tea, and forest floor. Great texture, muscle and length.Wine Spectator | 97 WS(Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche Grand Cru Red) As noted in the original review just after bottling, the once reserved nose is now starting to come out of its shell as there is plenty of the hallmark spice and floral components that are broad and deep and while the aromas are still on the restrained side, they are still most impressive. The big and generous flavors are an exercise in contrasts as they are at once round and rich while remaining wonderfully defined and precise with an intense minerality coming to the fore, all wrapped in a linear, precise and palate staining finish that not is explosive. Even at such a young age, the palate impression is entirely harmonious and the transparency and purity of expression are something to see. As I noted in the original review, while I do not argue that the ’06 La Tâche rivals vintages like ’99 or ’05, there is something special about this one that causes me to already be in love with it. In a word, magnificent and my original description needs no modification except perhaps to observe that this is a Zen-like vintage for La Tâche as it is very calm and deliberate in demeanor. (Drink starting 2026).Burghound | 96 BHGood colour. The nose is a bit hidden. But it is evident that this is a big step up on the Richebourg. More concentration. More volume. More depth. Above all more class and definition. Very lovely balanced fruit and an excellent long finish. Very fine plus.Decanter | 96 DECThe 2006 La Tâche is the most layered and pliant of these four 2006s. I especially admire the wine’s inner sweetness and perfume, both qualities that carry through to the creamy, expressive finish. This is a terrific showing from the 2006.Antonio Galloni | 96 AGDomaine de La Romanee-Conti’s 2006 La Tache possesses a sense of sheer density and a viscosity – by no means precluding energy – that go beyond the other wines in the Domaine’s current collection. Scents of bitter-sweet floral perfume, citrus oils, white pepper, peat, and black fruit distillates pungently, almost aggressively fill the nose. The marrow and beef gelatin aspect of this Pinot is salient, but is allied on a palpably tannic palate with similarly impressive concentrated cooked black fruits, dark mushroom stock, forest floor, smoky Lapsang tea, and licorice. For grip and power, too, this surpasses its stable mates. But a glance back at the Romanee-St.-Vivant suggests that you can’t have it all, and that this La Tache cannot approach that wine’s finesse or quite equal its mystery. Still, I suspect this will be worth following for at least two decades.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

Surpassing the 2007, Anne Gros’s 2008 Richebourg Grand Cru is showing very well, unfurling in the glass with scents of cassis, cherries, dried flowers, grilled meats and spices. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and nicely concentrated, with melting tannins, racy acids that are elegantly cloaked in succulent fruit and a long, penetrating finish. It makes for dramatic, head-turning drinking today, so there seems little reason to wait.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP(Richebourg- Domaine A-F. Gros) The 2008 Richebourg from A-F. Gros is fairly oaky, but with its wood much better integrated into the main body of the wine on both the nose and palate and posing no threat to the ultimate balance of the wine. The classy nose jumps from the glass in a blend of plums, black cherries, cocoa powder, orange zest, woodsmoke and spicy new wood. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and nicely transparent, with a fine core of fruit, ripe tannins and fine length and grip on the youthful finish. There is plenty of wood in this wine, but it is seamlessly integrated already and does not detract at all from the overall pleasure that the wine delivers. A very good example. (Drink between 2018-2040)John Gilman | 92+ JG(Domaine Anne-Françoise Gros Richebourg Grand Cru Red) Very generous wood fights somewhat at present with the cool, spicy and highly complex nose of red currant, plum and violet aromas that is very much in keeping with the equally spicy rich, full-bodied and tautly muscled flavors that display ample minerality on the balanced, long and linear finish. This is a very serious effort with fine but dense tannins that will require 15 to 20 years for them to fully resolve so this isn’t a precocious Riche. (Drink starting 2023)Burghound | 91-94 BH

Evoking plum and blackberry, this dark red shows somber earth notes as well. Rich, with smoke, licorice and spice tones on the lingering finish. The tannins are buried in the rich texture, and this stays fresh. Best from 2015 through 2035. 4 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSGood deep red. Superripe aromas of kirsch, licorice, violet, spices and earth. Lovely high-pitched wine but with an almost decadent richness. Not overly sweet for all its size and opulence. This impressively rich wine has an almost medicinal reserve, which suggests it will be better for patience. Finishes with big but fine-grained tannins and superb length, leaving an intriguing earthy perfume in the empty glass. "My hope was that this vintage would be approachable young," noted Jean-Nicolas Meo in November, "but the wines are more tannic than I thought. Most of them will probably need ten years. The ’99s, for example, are beginning to be a bit more drinkable now."Vinous Media | 93+ VMA lavishly fruited nose of essence black raspberry and game hints marries into opulently rich and mouth coating broad-shouldered flavors that are loaded with dry extract that buffers to perfection the very firm tannic spine on the overtly powerful and tautly muscular finish. This is a seriously impressive effort and the best of these three Cortons as the old vine sap is very much in evidence.Burghound | 93-95 BHThe 2009 Clos Rognet is a bit riper on both the nose and palate than the two above Cortons, but it remains quite pure and does not seem likely to stray over the edge into sur maturité. The bouquet is a fine blend of black cherries, black raspberries, dark chocolate, fresh herbs, roasted venison, coffee grounds, complex soil tones and new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very powerfully built, with plenty of mid-palate stuffing, firm, ripe tannins, and a long, plush and quite broad finish. This is a very good wine, but following hard on the heels of the more stony personalities of the above two wines, this comes off as decidedly riper in profile and a bit more fruit-driven in personality. (Drink between 2018 - 2040)John Gilman | 91+ JG

(Domaine Pierre Damoy Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru Red) This is notably spicier than the Chapelle with primarily purple fruit aromas and earth nuances sliding gracefully into beautifully detailed, rich and almost painfully intense large-scaled flavors that are overtly muscular and robust, all wrapped in a dusty finish where the tannins are dense but fine. The length is even better and this too should reward long-term aging, in fact it will absolutely need it as this is a powerful Bèze. (Drink starting 2025)Burghound | 93 BHThe 2010 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze shows the power of the vintage in its dark red fruit, flowers, smoke and graphite. It is a big, unrestrained wine loaded with intensity and sheer muscle. The aromas and flavors continue to open up with time in the glass. A seriously intense finish layered with deep floral and mentholated notes rounds things out. Damoy's Bèze is a blend of parcels predominantly planted in 1920, with some vineyards that date back to 1947 and 1980.Antonio Galloni | 92-94 AGThe 2010 Chambertin-Clos de Beze shows the power of the vintage in its dark red fruit, flowers, smoke and graphite. It is a big, unrestrained wine loaded with intensity and sheer muscle. The aromas and flavors continue to open up with time in the glass. A seriously intense finish layered with deep floral and mentholated notes rounds things out. Damoy's Beze is a blend of parcels predominantly planted in 1920, with some vineyards that date back to 1947 and 1980. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030.Once again I was thrilled with the wines I tasted with Pierre Damoy, a grower who doesn't get anywhere near the recognition he deserves. Yields were down dramatically, around 30-40%, just as they were throughout the region. Damoy did not begin picking until October 1, quite late for the year.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RP

This is also notably floral in character with a panoply of spice elements that add both depth and breadth to the cool cherry, raspberry and red currant aromas. As was the case with the Beaux Monts there is a spicy inner mouth perfume to the delicious and classy middle weight flavors that are shaped by sophisticated and very fine tannins, all wrapped in a mouth coating, focused and seriously persistent finish. A classic RSV. (Drink starting 2022)Burghound | 95 BHGood full, deep red. Sexy nose combines dried currant, cocoa powder, coffee, mocha, pepper and flowers; conveys a strong impression of terroir . Highly concentrated and sweet, with the red fruit and roast coffee flavors conveying a compellingly sappy quality. The powerful building finish offers serious tannic spine and lovely floral lift. The crop level for these old vines (the vineyard was originally planted in 1922 and the vines average 55 to 60 years of age) is always around 30 hectoliters per hectare, according to Alain Meunier.Vinous Media | 94 VM

(Romanée-St.-Vivant- Domaine Dujac) There is always very little Romanée-St.-Vivant in the Dujac cellars, and with the very short yields in 2010, this chronic shortage will be exacerbated. I cannot recall precisely how few barrels there were of the RSV this year, but there is not much of this magical elixir. The profoundly complex nose offers up scents of cherries, raspberries, coffee, exotic spice tones, a brilliant base of soil, a touch of pain epice, woodsmoke, gamebird and spicy new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, very pure and elegant, with kaleidoscopic minerality, refined tannins, tangy acids and stunning length and grip on the beautiful finish. (Drink between 2022-2075)John Gilman | 97+ JG(Domaine Dujac Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru Red) Like several of these 2010s, this is aromatically reserved to the point that only aggressive swirling liberates reluctant notes of spice, violets and a mix of perfumed red and black liqueur scents. The delicious, intense and beautifully detailed middle weight flavors possess a highly sophisticated mouth feel before terminating in a massively persistent, pure and harmonious finish. This seriously classy and exceptionally stylish effort is the epitome of power without weight, indeed it is textbook RSV. (Drink starting 2025)Burghound | 96 BHGood bright, full red. Aromas of crushed red berries, eucalyptus and blood orange, given even more punch by a suggestion of citrus peel. Pungent and penetrating in the mouth, with the crushed-grape character giving this very pure, focused wine an extremely primary quality today. With its rather powerful tannic spine, this is an infant. I would not be surprised if it needed 15 years to approach its plane of peak maturity.Vinous Media | 95+ VMThe 2010 Romanee Saint Vivant comes across as quite delicate, floral and feminine. Sweet red cherries, crushed flowers and mint wrap around the finish in this weightless, airy RSV. I have seen this wine grow significantly once it is in bottle, and expect that will be the case here as well. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040.Dujac fans will be thrilled with these 2010s. They are off the charts. The most difficult thing will no doubt be finding them. Jeremy Seysses reported yields down by 30-50% across the board, although his Morey blanc was down a whopping 90%. The poor flowering and wet summer resulted in loose bunches with a high amount of shot berries. The wines came in at 12 to 12.5% potential alcohol and were lightly chaptalized. Seysses used 80-90% stems for most of the wines, a little less for some, such as the Charmes and Combettes (around 70%) and more for the Chambertin and RSV (both 100%). Unfortunately, the 2010 Morey 1er Cru was too reduced to evaluate, so I will have to wait for another opportunity to taste the wine. I also tasted the entire range of 2009s. I will report on those wines in the April issue.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-96 RP