California Red Wines

wines

(Cabernet Sauvignon “Martha’s Vineyard”- Heitz Wine Cellars) The 1987 Martha’s Vineyard hails back to the time when the labels stated 13.5 percent alcohol, and in this most recent vertical tasting of the wine, one did get a strong sense that this vintage and earlier were indeed just a tad less ripe than subsequent vintages. This slightly lower octane seems to allow an even stronger signature of soil to infuse the wines. The 1987 Martha’s is a great, great wine that seems to have been lost a bit in the shuffle when it was released, as it followed on the heels of the specially labeled 1985. The bouquet is deep and absolutely stunning, as it delivers a complex blend of black cherries, mint, a touch of chocolate, Rutherford dust, pretty mineral tones and an exotic topnote of allspice. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very pure and transparent, with a seamless attack, a sappy core, and great length and grip on the tangy and perfectly poised finish. A great vintage of Martha’s that is a bit undeservedly overlooked in the pantheon of Martha’s Vineyard bottlings. (Drink between 2011-2050)John Gilman | 96 JGAll three of the 1987 Heitz Cabernets are extremely tight, closed in, and unbelievably tannic and hard. The 1987 Martha's Vineyard possesses an opaque, dense ruby/purple color, and a shockingly subdued, almost non-existent nose. Only after five days of breathing did the famed mint and eucalyptus nose of the Martha's Vineyard Cabernet emerge! In the mouth, the wine is rich, burly, and full-bodied, but also tannic and unflattering to taste. To say the wine needs significant time in the cellar is an understatement. Anticipated maturity: 1997-2010.Robert Parker | 90 RP

Chateau Montelena has made so many sensational Cabernets that it seems almost impossible to believe that their 1987 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate could be even more profound than any of the exceptional wines made previously at this property. The black/purple color, the extraordinary bouquet of rich cassis, violets, and licorice, the massive extraction of flavors, sensational depth, super ripeness, and a length that must last over a minute, suggest to me that this is easily the most concentrated and potentially longest-lived Cabernet Sauvignon that Chateau Montelena has ever made. The extract level is incredible, yet the balance is there. Anticipated maturity: 1997-2025.Robert Parker | 98 RPTight and perhaps even less flashy than usual, it is slow to reveal its complex range of earthy, cedary currant and black cherry.--Chateau Montelena vertical. Drink now through 2008. 7,200 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSFull medium ruby. Very tight, primary aromas of cassis, black licorice, minerals, shoe polish and menthol. Very concentrated, sweet flavor of cassis is still dominated by the wine structure. Finishes with big tannins, a suggestion of lead pencil and grip of steel. This bottle was still seven or eight years short of full maturity. Very impressive wine: not the sexiest cabernet of the tasting but potentially the longest-lived, along with the Dunn Howell Mountain. And even less evolved than a bottle I sampled in my vertical tasting a few years ago at Montelena.Vinous Media | 92 VM

A wine of pure texture and sensuality, Dunn's 1989 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain stands out for its exceptional overall balance and layered, silky personality. Veins of underlying minerality add brightness to a core of dark red fruit, crushed rocks, mint, flowers and spices. What a pretty wine this is.Vinous Media | 94 VMDark and immense, still a youngster, with intense earthy currant, plum and black cherry flavors that are rich, yet for all their weight still quite elegant. Still has tannin to lose. Decant if you drink it now.--1989 California Cabernet retrospective. Best from 2000 through 2010. 1,800 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

This wine is just beginning to drink spectacularly well. The rustic, big, thick 1990 is Californian in its orientation. It is loaded with flavor, but the tannin is coarser when compared to the seamlessness of the 1991's.Robert Parker | 94 RPA refined wine with an abundance of fruit on the nose and palate. Full-bodied, with fine tannins that increase on the finish. Still very young and closed. Try after 2005.--Cabernet Challenge. 17,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS(13.5% alcohol; 54% from To Kalon): Dark red. Dark currant, leather and a balsamic quality on the rather rustic nose. Boasts good size and sweetness but the leathery quality carries through to the finish, combining with slightly elevated acidity to give the tannins a dry edge.Vinous Media | 90 VM

1990 was the first vintage (4,756 cases produced) and one of the most abundant before the replanting became essential because of phylloxera, and was again made at Robert Pepi. However, the percentage of Cabernet Franc jumped to 10% in the final blend. Mia Klein, who worked with Tony Soter, was part of the winemaking team. This wine performed beautifully, and had that Château Margaux-like finesse, elegance and richness. Beautiful blackcurrant notes, graphite, rose petal and licorice, were all present in this deep ruby/plum-colored wine that came across like a Napa version of a first-growth Médoc. It is medium to full-bodied, with beautiful, integrated tannin, acidity and wood. This should continue to drink well for another 10-15-plus years.Robert Parker | 95 RPStill young and firm, this delivers spicy plum and chocolate flavors; it’s polished, balanced and intense. Approachable now.--Spottswoode vertical. Best after 2000. 4,500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

The 1991 Cabernet Sauvignon (88% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Cabernet Franc and Merlot) is an opaque, deeply saturated, purple-colored wine with a super sweet, pure nose of black-cherries, cassis, minerals, and vanilla. The wine possesses exceptional richness, full body, ripe tannin, and a blockbuster finish. Approachable now, it promises to evolve for two decades.Robert Parker | 94 RPRich, earthy, minty style, with a touch of leathery bitterness and tannins that grip and hang on tightly. Deeply colored and concentrated. A bold, assertive style that definitely needs time.--’81/’91 California Cabernet retrospective. Best from 2003 through 2012. 2,100 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Bright, deep red-ruby. Wonderfully mellow and complex on the nose, offering everything from fresh dark fruits to chocolate, red licorice, flowers and graphite minerality. Pure liquid silk in the mouth; at once sharply delineated and edge-free thanks to superb harmonious acidity, possessing a wonderfully tight core of juicy fruit. This very dry, classic Howell Mountain Cabernet finishes with serious dusty but sweet tannins and will still improve. Stunning wine. (13% alcohol).Vinous Media | 96 VMThe 1991 Howell Mountain Cabernet is noticeably thicker and more highly extracted than the 1992 and 1993 vintages. It is a huge, rich, powerful wine with great depth, as well as a boat-load of tannin. Do not touch a bottle for at least 5-6 years.Robert Parker | 93 RP(Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon “Howell Mountain”) I have a pretty high tolerance to brettanomyces in wine, and generally can tolerate a small amount in most bottles. That said, the ’91 Dunn Howell Mountain may be just a tad too bretty for its own good, and I am sure that there are plenty of people out there that are less tolerant of this issue and will find this wine less enjoyable than I did. The bouquet is deep and tight, with good complexity in its blend of cassis, black raspberries, medicinal tones, leather, stony soil tones, cedar and a fair bit of brett eventually emerging from the glass. On the palate the wine is fullish, young and shut down, with a good core of fruit, moderate tannins, lovely transparency down to the soil and good length and grip on the long and slightly bretty finish. If you have absolutely no tolerance for brett, knock this score down by several points, but for those that do not mind it too much, this is an impressively complex bottle of cabernet that is only a few years away from really peeking. (Drink between 2015-2040).John Gilman | 92 JGA dense, potent, rich, dark-colored wine, with immense tannins and a rich core of earth and leather-scented Cabernet fruit. Offers hints of mint, rose petal and anise, and at midpalate it gives a glimmer of polish before finishing with a wall of chewy tannins. Patience required.--'81/'91 California Cabernet retrospective. Best from 2003 through 2014.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

An extraordinary dense plum/purple color is followed by a seductive as well as explosive bouquet of white chocolate, creme de cassis, spring flowers, licorice and a touch of graphite. This full-bodied, opulent 1991 reveals a flawless integration of acidity, tannin, wood and alcohol. Magnificent in the mouth with an opulent and voluptuous texture, and not a hard edge to be found, it reveals mindboggling purity and vigor. This sensational Insignia can be enjoyed over the next 10-15+ years.Robert Parker | 100 RPThe 1991 Insignia is just as impressive as the Montelena. A rich, decadent, voluptuous wine, the 1991 is a phenomenal Insignia. Dark red and blue fruits, mocha and spices are some of the notes that flesh out in this modern-day classic from Phelps. This is such a great example of the more fruit-driven, ripe style in Napa Valley at its best. Even with all of the intensity, all the elements are in the right place.Vinous Media | 98 VMSleek, rich and focused, offering a tightly focused beam of spicy cedar, currant and black cherry. Firms up nicely on the finish, where the tannins flex their muscles, yet the fruit complexity and concentration pushes through.--'81/'91 California Cabernet retrospective. Drink now through 2010. 6,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

1991 marked the last vintage with Tony Soter and Mia Klein. The year was the most abundant in Spottswoode’s history, producing 5,852 cases of a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Cabernet Franc. Interestingly, this was also one of the great early stars in the tasting, showing that high yields can (when conditions are perfect – and they were in 1991, with a long growing season with plenty of sunshine, but no real extreme heat waves). This wine still has a dense, ruby/bluish-purple color, full body, a stunning nose of black raspberry, blackcurrant, licorice and camphor. The wine has fabulous intensity, full body, sweet tannin and a long, long finish. It is easy to say this has reached full maturity, but it still has a youthfulness and vibrancy that belies that notion. Look for this to continue to drink well for another 20 years. This is a great vintage for Napa Bordeaux blends.Robert Parker | 96 RPWonderful balance and orchestration of flavor. Ripe, rich currant, black cherry, plum and berry flavors are vivid and well-defined. Hints of olive, cedar, sage and anise fill out a very complex and sophisticated finish.--’81/’91 California Cabernet retrospective. Drink now through 2009. 5,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

Dalla Valle’s 1992 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate is a worthy successor to the blockbuster 1990 and 1991. Huge, sweet aromas of black fruits, spices, and oak are followed by a wine with great fruit extraction, full body, layers of richness, and that multidimensional, layered feel that this producer routinely obtains. The flattering personality of the 1992 has resulted in a more unctuous and voluptuous wine than even the 1991 or 1990. Moreover, it will have 15+ years of aging potential.Robert Parker | 95 RPIntense and dark-colored, with deeply concentrated currant, anise, pencil lead and cedary oak flavors. Continues to reveal exceptional depth and concentration, with a long, fruity finish and firm tannins.--’92 California Cabernet retrospective. Drink now through 2010. 2,700 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 1992 Dominus, of which there are 7,000 cases made from a blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc, 22% Merlot, and the remainder Petit Verdot, is an opulent, opaquely concentrated wine with great ripeness of fruit, and a huge nose of earth, black-cherries, mocha, and herbs. Full-bodied, with a layered, multidimensional personality, adequate acidity, and a super finish, this should prove to be another fabulous Dominus for drinking over the next 20-25 years. It is more forward than the 1991 or 1990.Robert Parker | 97 RPThe 1992 Dominus is gorgeous, bursting from the glass in a blaze of mentholated black cherries, loamy soil and forest floor, and following through on the palate with a compelling marriage of bright fruit and a supple, expansive texture. The cooler vintage has made for a great deal of aromatic complexity and capacity to refresh, without losing any Napa generosity. Delicious wine. Drinking Window 2016 - 2025Decanter | 93 DECVery deep red-ruby. Very complex aromas of raspberry, licorice, road tar, lead pencil and mint; a faint vegetal nuance adds to its complexity. Fat, supple, sweet and mouthfilling, but can’t match the ’94 for sheer substance, nuance or depth. Finishes powerful and very ripe, with dusty, substantial tannins and a hint of alcohol. This will age more on its tannins than on its rather soft acidity.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The 1992s (the Alexander Valley will be released in August, 1996 and the Napa Valley in February, 1997) are beautifully made, flashy wines. The 1992 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon exhibits a denser color, less of the Alexander Valley herb/cedar/cigar box nose, and more of the gorgeously pure, cassis, vanilla, and flowery scents. The rich, deep, supple 1992 possesses low acidity and exceptional ripeness and concentration. It should last for 15 years after its release.Robert Parker | 96 RP

The 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon, which I have drunk with great pleasure despite its backwardness, possesses a full-bodied, multi-layered personality, with plenty of tannin, but sufficient earthy, black currant/plum-like fruit to balance out the wine’s structure. With an opaque purple color, a high tannin level, and gorgeous layers of fruit and intensity, it will be at its peak after 4-6 years of cellaring, and will last for 20-25 years. I don’t think I need to reinforce the fact that these offerings are extremely difficult to find, but isn’t that the way it always is with such extraordinary wines?Robert Parker | 94 RPImpressive for its richness, depth and concentration, this is a tightly wound, well-focused Cabernet that exhibits a wonderful pure core of currant, black cherry and blackberry fruit that’s remarkably youthful. For all its depth and complexity, it ends up being elegant and sophisticated.--California Cabernet ’74/’84/’94 retrospective. Drink now through 2014. 2,800 cases made. — JLWine Spectator | 94 WS(13.5% alcohol): Full dark red. Pure but subdued aromas and flavors of currant, leather and balsamic cedar, plus a hint of dried flowers. Sweet, lush and suave in texture but with nicely integrated acidity giving shape and lift to the middle palate. Finishes with sweet, granular tannins and excellent energy and lift. Delicious now but there’s no rush to drink it.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Christian Moueix and his talented winemaking team continue to rewrite the definition of a Napa Valley reference point wine. I have had a difficult time keeping the corks in my bottles of 1994 Dominus. Eight-thousand cases were produced from a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, 12% Merlot, and 4% Petit Verdot. In this vintage, 174 days passed between bud break and the harvest, a remarkable period of time for any wine region in the world. The 1994 is a strikingly thick, compellingly rich wine with the texture of a great Pomerol, despite being made primarily from Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine exhibits a dense purple color, and an incredibly fragrant nose of jammy black fruits, spice, smoke, and loamy, truffle-like scents. In the mouth, it is full-bodied, with thrilling levels of extract and richness, but no sense of heaviness or harshness. This seamless Dominus possesses no hard edges, as its acidity, tannin, and alcohol are beautifully meshed with copious quantities of ripe fruit. This wine offers early drinking, yet has the potential to last for 30+ years.Robert Parker | 99 RPStill a youthful, deep, ruby-black, the 1994 Dominus explodes with blackberry, cassis and truffle notes, along with some rustic sous bois and leather. This Bordeaux-styled wine is rich and intense but classically proportioned; though it is somewhat more rustic and heady than the stunning 1991. Edouard Moeiux advises serving this wine at a relatively cool temperature. Drinking Window 2016 - 2026Decanter | 95 DEC(14.1% alcohol): Full, deep red with an amber rim. Distinctly sauvage aromas of redcurrant, coffee, leather, game and spicecake. Suave, seamless and fully mature, offering a plush texture and moderate sweetness to its slightly decadent flavors of currant, leather, smoke, mocha, earth and fresh herbs. This wild boy is at its apogee right now, although some tasters may find it too funky. Finishes classically dry, with dusty sweet tannins and considerable sex appeal.Vinous Media | 93 VMDark-hued, rich and intense, deftly balanced, with a pretty array of ripe currant, anise, black cherry and plum. Concentrated, with firm tannins, it finishes with a bold, rich aftertaste that shows off cedar, sage and pretty earthy nuances.--California Cabernet ’74/’84/’94 retrospective. Drink now through 2009. 8,500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

I believe the 1995 is the finest produced under the Araujo regime. It is close to perfection. The wine combines extraordinary power and richness with remarkable complexity and finesse. The saturated purple/black color is followed by aromas of sweet vanillin intermixed with riveting scents of black currants, minerals, exotic spices, coffee, and toast. There is nothing garish about this subtle yet powerful giant of a wine. A Napa Valley classic, it is full-bodied and extremely rich, yet retains its sense of balance and symmetry. This fabulous Cabernet Sauvignon should age effortlessly for 30 or more years. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2030.Robert Parker | 98 RPHealthy dark red. Musky, soil-inflected aromas of dark raspberry, strawberry, minerals, tobacco, underbrush, cedar and dried herbs. Wonderfully silky and concentrated, displaying outstanding spicy lift to the vibrant, sharply delineated flavors of berries, coffee, anise and tobacco. Like a hypothetical blend of St. Julien and Graves. This beauty has only gained in clarity through the years as it has absorbed its baby fat. The tannins are firm but suave, in perfect balance with the wine's acidity and fruit. Juicy and subtly long on the aftertaste.Vinous Media | 95 VMA delightfully rich, vibrant and complex wine that is aging very gracefully. The core flavors are well-focused and offer a mix of mature red currant, plum and floral scents, with a touch of anise and mineral on the finish. Ripe tannins let the flavors glide through the finish, where mocha adds a nice added dimension.--1995 California Cabernet retrospective. Drink now through 2015. 2,500 cases made. — JLWine Spectator | 94 WS

Sleek and well-structured, with a braid of exotic smoke, currant, green olive and herbal flavors that drape together nicely, holding a tight focus and showing how ripe, supple tannins can integrate without dominating. Finishes with a dash of mocha and spice.--1995 California Cabernet retrospective. Drink now through 2010. 2,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSWhile it is fashionable to criticize this wine because of its price, and the secrecy surrounding the amount produced (who really cares?), the wine is unquestionably outstanding. The 1995 boasts a dark ruby/purple color as well as an attractive bouquet with lavish quantities of toasty new oak and black currants. There is moderate tannin, good purity, and an open-knit, sexy style. If the wine had not fallen a bit short on the mid-palate, it would have merited an even higher score. It should drink well for 10-15 years. Based on the fame of this winery and the price of the wine, one would expect this Cabernet to compete with Colgin, Bryant Family Vineyards, Screaming Eagle, Araujo, and Harlan Estate. It does not. Nevertheless, it is an outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon.Robert Parker | 90 RP(14% alcohol): Good bright, dark red. Sexy oak tones to the aromas of musky dark berries, menthol and dark chocolate. The enticing silky, spicy palate shows a light touch. An elegantly styled wine with a restrained sweetness and juicy, nicely integrated acidity to its plum and chocolate flavors. Finishes with a fine dusting of granular tannins and very good lift and length.Vinous Media | 90 VM

Pahlmeyer's proprietary red table wine tends to be Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated (usually 80-85%) with small portions of Malbec, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot. The 1995 Proprietary Red Wine may be even better than the 96 point score I bestowed it. It is unquestionably among the top dozen 1995s. The wine boasts an explosive blackberry/blueberry/cassis-scented nose that has completely soaked up all the new oak in which it has been aged for the last 22 months. Purple/black in color, it exhibits fabulously extracted, layered black fruit flavors that coat the palate, offering a seamless texture and voluptuous impression.This is another winery where getting on the mailing list is essential to securing a few bottles of these liquid gems.With each new vintage I am blown away by Pahlmeyer's wines. Lest anyone forget, the genius of consulting winemaker Helen Turley is behind these wines. I kept retasting them, thinking I was being too generous, but they justly deserve their lofty numerical ratings. They are as exciting as anything a wine lover could taste.Robert Parker | 96 RPDark red. Wild, slightly rustic aromas of raspberry, mocha and leather. Boasts surprising sweetness and intensity to its red fruit flavors, along with complicating notes of game and incense and a saline suggestion of ripe tomato. The firm, fine tannins are quite sweet and silky. Shows a whiff of Band-Aid that suggests some brett, but this wine is long on personality. I'd enjoy it over the next few years before its sweetness fades. This wine was made by Helen Turley.Vinous Media | 90 VM